Posted in Unit 2

PSFSP 2 Be able to facilitate campfire management appropriate to a Forest School programme

Choosing the right site for a fire

When choosing where to make a fire, there are a number of factors to consider. The soil type is very important as some types of soil can be flammable. Lots of leaf litter can cause a peaty soil which can cause an underground fire underneath your fire site. A light, fluffy, woody soil can also catch light. Clay, stoney or brown muddy soil are not flammable. However, rocks and slate can explode under high heats. The wind direction should also be considered when planning where the fire should be and where the children and staff should be. Anybody near the fire needs to be situated with their back to the wind which will stop the flames blowing towards them.

When the fire area has been decided upon, an area should be cleared down to bare soil. A boundary should be made around the area, at least 10 feet around the fire. This can be made with logs or stones which the children can sit on. The children can be set to work finding kindling while this is set up.

Lighting the fire

This is the fire triangle. It shows that to light a fire you need equal amounts of heat, fuel, and oxygen. Without all three elements, your fire will not light. If an element is removed, the fire will go out. Heat can be provided by a spark, flame or friction. Once the fire is lit it will create its own heat. Fuel is provided by materials such as wood, coal or charcoal. Oxygen comes naturally from the air but more can be added by blowing into the base of the fire.

To create the fire triangle we need:

Tinder

This is easily flammable material that will light the fire. It needs to be smaller than the thickness of a finger and very dry. Tinder can either be naturally found or man-made. Most very dry natural materials can be used as tinder. Examples include dried leaves, birch bark or standing dry wood. Standing dry wood is dead branches and twigs that can be found caught up in branches. As these haven’t reached the ground they have been air-dried and can’t absorb moisture from the soil. To check if the wood is suitable, bend it and see if it snaps. If it bends or breaks with a dull noise it is not suitable. Man-made tinders include char cloth, lint, cotton wool, and paper.

King Alfred’s Cake

Punk can be good tinder. This is rotting deadwood which has a spongy texture and it needs to be very dry. King Alfred’s Cake is a fungus which can also be used. Again this needs to be dry.

Kindling

Kindling can consist of larger sticks than the tinder. Anything above pencil thickness that is easily snapped by hand can be used as kindling.

Fuel

Fuel consists of larger sticks and logs which are dry. Once the fire is lit, it needs to be fed fuel to keep it burning. This needs to be added carefully so that it doesn’t smother the fire and cause a lack of oxygen.

What if resources aren’t available?

Most Forest School leaders have a little kit of dry tinder and kindling with them in case there is none to be found on site.

Fire Lighting Equipment

Once we have got all of our tinder, kindling, and fuel ready and there is oxygen available, we complete the fire triangle by adding heat with a spark. There are a number of different ways of doing this.

Quick Methods

In case of an emergency, matches or lighters can be used to start the fire. These are good methods if it is extremely cold and we need to start a fire quickly. However, they are not challenging for children to use and can become damp in wet weather.

Magnesium Blocks or Strikers

Fire strikers are fun and easy for children of all ages to use. The rod is struck in a downward motion with the steel which creates a spark. These are relatively safe as they will not start a fire unless the spark hits fuel. They can also be used in damp or wet weather conditions.

Natural Resource Methods

Rubbing two sticks together creates friction which creates heat. This friction can also be created with a bow drill where a bow is used to rotate some wood onto a wooden base. It can also be done by hand rather than using a bow. This requires a lot of patience but is very rewarding when it works. Another way to create heat is by using a magnifying glass to magnify the sun’s light onto the tinder. This is more effective if a char cloth is used and is a good way to add some physics to your Forest School session.

Char Cloth

Char cloth is created by placing a piece of fabric in a tin with a small hole in it. This tin is heated slowly on the fire, burning the fabric very slowly. It lights very easily when sparked.

Fire Lays

Tipi

The tipi fire lay is an easy one to create but can require a lot of kindling. Your tinder is placed in the middle of the fire area (on top of a dry piece of bark if the ground is wet) and kindling is put around, leaning it into a tipi shape. The tinder is then lit and as the fire burns, the kindling falls in and feeds it. A tipi fire can be built bigger with larger pieces of fuel being added to the outside to make it burn for longer.

Waffle

A waffle fire lay is effective as it raises the fire off the floor, keeping it from any moisture. The gaps between the wood also allow plenty of oxygen into the fire. However, it does use a lot of wood. It is created by laying two twigs (kindling) on the floor and then placing more across the top to create a waffle shape. The waffle can be built at the bottom of a tipi fire if the ground is wet. Tinder is placed on top of the kindling and lit to create the fire.

Lean to

For this fire, you need a large log which is placed upwind of where you want the fire to be. This log creates a wall to protect the fire from the elements. Tinder is placed leaning against the log and then kindling is propped against the tinder. When the tinder has been lit, you may need to blow into the fire to add oxygen as the log can prevent oxygen flow.

 

Management Procedures of the Campfire

How to extinguish a campfire

To extinguish a fire, you need to remove an element of the fire triangle.

  • Fuel – if there is not much fuel left, the fire can be left to burn it off. Alternatively, the fuel can be spread out across the pit to dissipate the heat or removed completely.
  • Heat – pour water around the fire to take away some of the heat. Do not pour it straight onto the fire as the embers could spit or explode.
  • Oxygen – once the embers have stopped glowing, smother the fire with soil or sand to stop oxygen from getting to the embers. It is important not to just cover the fire and leave it as it can continue to burn underneath.

How to leave a permanent fire site

Check the temperature around the pit and dig into the earth to check there. Once all of the heat has gone and the embers are extinguished, it is safe to leave the site.

Temporary fire

Once the fire is fully extinguished, cover it with soil or sand and leaf litter to remove evidence of it ever being there.

 

Posted in Unit 2

PSFSP 1.7 Explain how to erect a temporary shelter, making use of woodland materials

There are two main ways to build a temporary shelter using woodland materials. For both of these methods a ridge pole is needed which can be a large stick. This is what decides the width of the shelter. A large number of long sticks are then needed to make the rest of the shelter.

A Frame Shelter

  • The sticks are stood in a triangular shape, leaning towards each other. They should be alternated to help them to link and hold together.
  • The ridge pole is placed on top of the triangles and can be tied on to make it more secure.
  • Both sides can then be covered with smaller twigs and sticks to fill in any gaps.
  • Leaves, grass and moss can be added on top of this to make the shelter waterproof.

Lean to Shelter

  • This shelter requires two trees which are wide enough apart for your shelter. The ridge pole needs to be longer than the gap between the trees.
  • The ridge pole is tied to both trees, using a timber hitch.
  • The sticks are then laid against the ridge pole on one side only.
  • The sticks can be covered with twigs, leaves, moss and grass to make the shelter waterproof.
Posted in Unit 2

PSFSP 1.6 Erect a temporary shelter, using tarpaulin and ropes

Knowing how to erect a variety of different shelters is important for a Forest School leader, especially in this country! The three shelters I describe below are a kit shelter, a low shelter, and a high shelter.

Kit Shelter

This is often the first shelter we would put up in bad weather as it keeps all of our kit dry. The shelter has a drop back to protect from wind or rain and two sticks holding it up at the front for easy access to our kit.

To erect this shelter you first need a rope going from one tree to another. A timber hitch is used at one end and the tarpaulin is threaded through the rope. An overhand knot is used just before you reach the other tree and this creates a loop. The end of the rope then goes around the tree and through the loop. A slip knot is then used to finish the rope. The back of the tarpaulin is pegged to the ground. Two sticks of similar height are then used to prop up the front of the tarpaulin by putting them through the eyelets. A guy rope is attached to the top of each stick using a larks foot knot and the two pieces of rope are pulled separate and pegged to the floor to create tension.

Low Shelter

The purpose of a low shelter is to create a dry space for the children to sit under. It is erected in exactly the same way as a kit shelter except both sides of the tarpaulin are pegged to the ground, creating an A shape.

High Shelter

A high shelter is any shelter that is high enough for us to stand underneath. It can be used to shield a fire from rain. The shelter above was erected in the same way as the kit shelter except it was higher up the tree. Both sides of the tarpaulin were propped up with sticks.

A shelter can also be made much higher, where you can’t reach to tie the knots. To do this you need to tie a heavy knot like a figure of eight  on the end of the rope and then throw it up over a high branch. You can then tie the rope in a timber hitch at a lower point on the tree where you can reach. You need to thread the tarpaulin through the rope before doing the same on the other tree. The tarpaulin will then be up as high as the branches you’ve chosen. This is perfect for over a fire.

Posted in Unit 2

PSFSP 2.2 Demonstrate simple methods of cooking over a campfire with due regard to basic food hygiene and explain how this can be taught to a client group

During my Forest School practice I have made a variety of foods over the campfire.

For this meal, I placed a metal grid over my fire and fried some vegetarian sausages over the flames. I roasted the mushrooms and spinach in some foil. They were left on the embers to cook through and then unwrapped and added to the frying pan. Foil parcels are great ways to cook with children as long as they are aware of the dangers of the steam which comes out when you open the parcel.

We tried some baking over the fire with some simple damper bread with added raisins. The dough was wrapped around metal skewers and then we held the skewers over the flames to toast the dough all the way around.

On our assessment week, we also made damper bread but it was a gluten-free version as a few of our group were coeliac. We made a savoury damper bread, using wooden sticks instead of skewers. We selected the sticks the day before and used a knife to strip the outer bark off. This is a great activity to do with children to practice their knife skills. When they are holding the sticks over the fire they need to be wearing fire gloves to protect their hands from the flames. We also boiled a garlic dip to dip our bread in, using butter, garlic, and parsley. This was all cooked in a frying pan over the embers.

At one of our practice sessions, we made a Caribbean rice bowl. After establishing our fire, we put a metal grid over it and used a large pan to fry some spring onions and peppers. We added some spices, garlic, black beans, rice, and a squeeze of lime. We then left the lid on to let the food steam cook and stirred every so often until cooked through.

Posted in Unit 2

PSFSP 1.2-1.3 Using a sheath knife

A sheath knife is used to whittle wood and cut rope.

Using a Sheath Knife

When using the sheath knife, children must be told to keep the blade away from you and on the outside of your body. It is important for the Forest School leader to supervise all tool use and ensure that children are sitting in the correct position when using a knife.

Safety

The knife should be put inside its sheath when not in use, pushing it in until you hear a click. When standing or walking with the knife, the blade should face down. To pass it to a friend, hold the sheath and give the handle to the other person. When placed on the floor, the handle should face forwards and the blade inwards. A glove should be worn on the helper hand.

This is a risk assessment for the use of Sheath Knives at our Forest School:

Sheath Knife Risk Assessment

Maintenance and Storage

The knife can be sharpened using a sharpening stone. It can be cleaned with a cloth and oil. The knife should be stored in its sheath in a waterproof container.

Tool talk 

This is my sheath knife

This is the handle

This is the sheath

I take the sheath off like this

This is the blade

This is the cutting edge

When I have finished I put it back in the sheath like this

I stand with the sheath knife like this

I walk with the sheath knife like this

I pass the sheath knife like this

When I use the sheath knife I use it two arms and a tool away from anyone else except my partner

I use the sheath knife for cutting string and whittling wood

I wear a glove on the helper hand

When I am not using the sheath knife I put it down with the handle facing out and the blade facing in

When I have finished using the sheath knife I put it in the designated place or the toolbox provided

 

Posted in Unit 2

PSFSP 1.2-1.3 Using a Bow Saw

A bowsaw is used to cut any wood that is thicker than a two pence piece. When teaching this to children it is important to emphasise that the tool is used for “wood” only as many things are thicker than a two pence piece!

Using a Bowsaw

A bowsaw is used by two children, both kneeling in the “respect position”. The first child holds the handle whilst the second child holds the other side. Until the saw has made an indentation into the wood, both users should put their hands through the handle and hold the wood. Once an indentation has been made and the saw is less likely to bounce, the users can hold the wood adjacent to the saw. It is important to communicate effectively with the other person holding the saw. As the saw is pulled backwards and forwards, the two children use an agreed-upon phrase such as “push” “pull”. Before the children use the saw, the leader should ensure that this conversation has taken place and a phrase has been agreed upon. The Forest School leader should supervise all tool use.

Safety

A glove should be worn on the helper hand but not on the hand using the tool. When standing or walking with the tool, the saw should be next to your leg with the blade facing down. When passing the tool you pass the handle to the other person, whilst keeping the blade facing downwards. When the tool is placed on the floor, the blade should be facing towards the body and the handle facing outwards. The sheath should always be on the blade when not in use.

Here is a risk assessment for the use of a Bowsaw at our Forest School:

Bow Saw Risk Assessment

Maintenance and Storage

The blades can be changed if one is damaged or dull. There are two types of blade available, one with a small serrated edge which is for seasoned wood and one with spaced serrated edges which is for green wood. To clean the blade, use a cloth and oil to remove any dirt. The bowsaw should be stored in a waterproof container to keep it clean and dry, with its blade cover on.

Tool talk 

This is a Bowsaw

This is the handle

This is the blade cover

I take the blade cover off like this

This is the blade

This is the cutting edge

When I have finished sawing I put the cover back on like this

I stand with the bowsaw like this

I walk with the bowsaw like this

I pass the bowsaw like this

When I use the bowsaw I use it two arms and a tool away from anyone else except my partner

I use the bowsaw to cut anything bigger than a 2 pence piece

I wear a glove on the helper hand

When I am not using the bowsaw I put it down with the handle facing out and the blade facing in

When I have finished using the bowsaw I put it in the designated place or the toolbox provided

 

Posted in Unit 2

PSFSP 1.2-1.3 Using Loppers

Loppers are used to cut any wood that is thinner than a two pence piece. They are a good tool to begin with when introducing tools to children as they are relatively safe.

Using loppers

One hand holds the top handle and one hand holds the bottom. The loppers are used in a scissoring motion. They are used by one child but another child can hold the stick to help stabilise it.

Safety

When standing or walking with loppers, one hand holds the bottom arm and one hand holds the top. The blades face forwards. To pass the loppers you turn the handles and pass them to the other person. When the loppers are placed on the ground, the handles should be facing forwards and the blade should be facing you. No gloves are worn when using loppers. Loppers should be used two arms and a tool away from anyone else.

Maintenance and Storage

Loppers can be sharpened with the use of a round sharpening block. They should only be sharpened on the cutting edge side. They can be cleaned with a cloth and oil. They need to be stored in a waterproof container.

Tool talk 

These are my loppers

This is the handle

This is the blade

This is the cutting edge

I stand with my loppers like this

I walk with my loppers like this

I pass the loppers like this

I use the loppers two arms and a tool away from anyone else except my partner

I use the loppers to cut anything smaller than a two pence piece

I do not use gloves with this tool

When I am not using my loppers I put them on the ground with the handles facing forwards and the blade facing behind me

When I have finished using my loppers I place them in the designated place or the toolbox provided

Posted in Unit 2

PSFSP 1.2-1.3 Using a billhook

A billhook is used for splitting or cleaving large pieces of wood.

Using a Billhook

A billhook is used by two children. The first child holds the billhook with one hand on the handle and two fingers pinching the end of the blade. The blade is then placed on the top of the wood that needs splitting. The second child uses a piece of wood or a mallet to hit the top of the bill hook and push the blade into the wood. Communication is important here. The first person tells the second how many hits to do and how hard to do them so that they can be prepared.

Safety

When standing or walking with the billhook, the blade should be facing down and the hook facing forward. To pass it to a friend you hold the top of the tool with the blade pointing down and pass the handle to the other person. When the billhook is placed on the floor, the hook and blade should be facing inwards and the handle pointing forwards.

Here is a risk assessment for the use of a Billhook at our Forest School:

Bill Hook Risk Assessment

Maintenance and Storage

The blade can be sharpened using a sharpening stone. It can be cleaned with a cloth and oil. The tool should be stored in its sheath in a waterproof container.

Tool talk 

This is my billhook

This is the handle

This is the cover

I take the cover off like this

This is the blade

This is the cutting edge

When I have finished with the billhook I put it back in the cover like this

I stand with the billhook like this

I walk with the billhook like this

I pass the billhook like this

When I use the billhook I use it two arms and a tool away from anyone else except my partner

I use the billhook for cleaving and splitting wood

I do not wear gloves when using this tool

When I am not using the billhook I put it down with the handle facing out and the blade facing in

When I have finished using the billhook I put it in the designated place or the toolbox provided